Even a Flat Tire Can't Stop This Group

We left the Grand Canyon and headed back in the direction of home with a few more stops to make on the way and a few more adventures to be experienced. We came through Monument Valley on the way to Moab, Utah, a place Don has always wanted to see since so many John Wayne movies were filmed there. Of course, we had to explain to Jack who John Wayne was.

When we pulled into the Canyonlands Campground in Moab we discovered a flat rear tire on Bertha. It was some sort of miracle that the other tire held up until we were off the road. We immediately called Good Sam and after some run around, we were hooked up with Jeff the tire guy from Chip's Grand Tire in town. We were a little concerned when they could not be sure how long it would take to get a new tire from Salt Lake City and Good Sam would not cover a repair.No matter, this tire was beyond repair anyway.

Jeff was just great. He knew we were here to enjoy Moab and took care of us just great. He was here first thing in the morning to remove the tire and diagnose the problem so we could take off for Canyonlands National Park in late morning. Canyonlands is a continuation of the Colorado river and the Green River and they join forces in the middle.

 Much of this park is accessible only by 4 wheel drive. But an ample sampling is available by car and foot.

We took a few short hikes to the best viewpoints. We have learned that the definition of easy hikes in this part of the country still involves up and down steep inclines studded with rocks and loose sand.


Jack was really impressed with this natural arch. This of course was before we went to Arches.

We returned home in the late afternoon to rest and have a bite to eat before heading out to Canyonlands by Day and Night for a moonlight cruise on a speed boat into the Canyons. Our narrator, Rubin was a pleasure to listen as he pointed out many of the aspects of canyon life. After the cruise, we had dinner with the cruise people.

The next morning Jeff had procured a tire attached it to the rim and arrived at the campground to apply it to the coach while we were visiting Arches National Park with the promise that we would bring payment to the shop first thing the next morning. We love doing business in small towns like this. They are so accommodating and trusting. We had a similar experience in Terrace Bay, Ontario a few years back when we had a crippling problem with our pop-up.

Park Avenue

Arches excited Jack from the moment we arrived. The drive in is studded with fantastic rock formations with names such as Three Gossips, Park Avenue, and Balancing rock. We had great fun finding names for many formations on our own. We had planned a few short hikes to see the highlights of the park as it was the hottest day of the year and water is not readily available in the park.



Jack building his own cairn



We both learned a new word that day - cairn - a pile of rocks which mark the trail. When we got out of the car at balancing rock, the trail around the rock was marked with cairns. In fact, it seems to be the practice for visitors to build their own cairns leaving something like a garden of them at the base of the formation. We decided that Karen was absolutely an appropriate name for our GPS after all.



Balancing Rock



I mean, this is hardly seeing it for real

 Our next project was a short 3/4 mile hike straight up to a spot where you can view the Delicate Arch, Utah's state symbol from a distance without taking the strenuous hike up to its base. When we reached the top it was so far away it was very disappointing so we mulled it over and decided to eat our peanut butter sandwiches then bite the bullet and hike up to the delicate arch. The problem was that this hike rises about 500 feet over slip rock for about 1 1/2 mile. Having done it now I can say it was much more strenuous than the hike out of Grand Canyon. It is desert climate temperature close to 100 and no shade. That said we had about 2 liters of water for the three of us. There is no water available at this trail head and because we were slightly short on gas, Don did not want to use gas running up to the only place in the park that had water available. Therefore he decided not to make the hike with us which was very smart because Jack and I were rationing our water until a very nice couple from Indiana insisted on giving us a fresh cold bottle of water which got us safely to the end of the trail.



Compare this view to the one above

 The hike was extremely difficult for me while Jack carried our pack and raced ahead to scout the trail out for me. He was very encouraging and kept saying it's not much further. At least twice I considered giving up and letting him go the rest of the way himself, but shear stubbornness and the desire to be sure he saw this spectacle kept me going. No way could I rest easy sending him off on his own. I don't think he would have gone either. Funny thing, at the top, once I cooled off a bit, the hike suddenly lost its sting. The trip down was quite easy except for the nagging thirst in spite of the large amounts of water we drank. I was too involved in keeping moving to take pictures of the actual trail. You just have to take my word for it that it was tough but kind of fun at that. Another funny thing is that 40 years ago Don and I took this same hike and it didn't seem bad at all. They must have moved the trail.

After that we proceeded to Devil's trail head where there was drinking water to refill our bottles and you'd better believe that all three of us guzzled water for at least 5 minutes. Refortified we proceded to our next walk on this trail to see Landscape Arch. This trail was listed as relatively flat. Well compared to the last hike, I guess it was "relatively" flat at least by Utah definition of flat. It took us about another 3 miles and this time we had plenty of water and were able to take our time. The trail itself was so beautiful that the destination was not necessarily important anymore.


Our George of the Jungle hats have served us well

 While I looked like this:

Jack was doing this.

There is Nothing Grander Than the Grand Canyon

It has taken a few days to recover physically from the Grand Canyon as the hikes are strenuous, the weather hot, and the rewards awesome. We were so excited to see Jack's eyes bug out at his first glimpse of the canyon.

We arrived early enough the first day to set up camp then hike up to the rim, take a few pictures, have dinner at the Bright Angel Restaurant, and still catch sunset on the canyon. We soon learned how to take the shuttle bus where we wanted to go as everywhere you want to go is uphill and the maps of walking trails to get there are awful. This is the first time we have been to a National Park where is is more difficult to find your way around on foot than motor vehicle. However, by the time we hiked first the rim of the canyon on Sunday, then into the canyon on the Bright Angel Trail on Monday, we appreciated the free rides anyway.

Sunday morning we went to mass in Canyon Village. Unfortunately, this was the first time since we left home we have been able to get to Sunday Mass. The first Sunday we were in Yellowstone and the nearest church was about 50 miles away. The next Sunday we were in Arco, Utah where the only churches within 35 miles are Mormon. We love our fellow Christians, the Mormons, but are not ready to embrace their faith.

So here in the Grand Canyon we actually found a Catholic Church. I believe the name was El Cristo del Rey. They have 35 families in their membership. Mass takes place in a lovely chapel with a mural of the Grand Canyon behind the alter. What a wonderful environment in which to worship the Lord in all his splendor.

After Mass we packed up our peanut butter sandwiches, granola bars, and water bottles and took off for the Canyon Rim. We hiked several miles from one view point to the next, and hopped the shuttle a couple of times between viewpoints for a rest. We finally made it to the end, Hermits Rest where we enjoyed an ice cream snack before jumping the shuttle back to camp.

When we had dinner at the Bright Angel Restaurant, Jack was given a great activity book about the canyon which he spent many hours with that evening. In the center was a map of the canyon with 4 gift shops marked on it. If you get a sticker at each stop, you get a free gift. He was on a quest to get all four stickers, so we stopped at the last gift shop before returning to camp, got his sticker, and the prize was a stuffed Kokopelli doll. Kokopelli, we discovered, is a god who appears in many of the hieroglyphics in the canyons of Utah and Arizona and has become a symbol of the area. It also turns out that he is a fertility god which blew Don's mind because now he is embarrassed that he bought a T-shirt with the little guy on the front.

 The next day was to be our big adventure. We were to leave camp at 5AM to start on the Bright Angel Trail to the bottom of the canyon at the crack of dawn in order to finish at least most of the hike before 10 am when the heat of day begins. Well, when you are retired you rarely have to set an alarm clock and since the clocks we have were purchased post retirement, we never quite got the knack of setting them properly. Hence, I awoke when daylight came through the bedroom window which was about 5:30 am. We put together our packs with our water bottles, peanut butter sandwiches, and other snacks, and hustled out to our car to park at what we thought was a lot just a hop skip and a jump to the trail head. Well one hour later with 1.6 miles already on the pedometer, we finally reached the trail head and started down at 7:00, one and a half hours behind schedule.

The trail down was much rougher than I had expected and my ankles were having trouble navigating the rocks in spite of my good hiking boots. It took 1 1/2 hours to go 2 miles into the canyon and expecting it to take about twice as long to hike out we had to give up the hike. By the time we reached the top, the pedometer read over 6 miles total, and it was 10:30 am. Jack is such a sweetheart. He knew I was having trouble with the rocks going down and reached a point where he said, "I don't think we will see anything much different by going any further down" so that's when we headed back up. Just as I thought, the hiking was easier for me going up than down as long as I stopped to catch my breath at intervals.

We were all pretty whipped by the time we got back to camp. We tossed the PB&J sandwiches, made a real lunch and took a shower. After some recuperative time, we headed out again to the visitor center and found our way back to the ice cream place by figuring out the map. That was an additional 2 mile hike, but at least with the promise of ice cream, it was easier going. (it was also downhill).

In the evening Don and Jack attended a ranger program while I cleaned up the coach and got ready to move the next day. All in all, a very exciting trip to the Grand Canyon.

Adventures in Zion

So, Don decided we could save quite a few miles getting to Virgin, Utah, our base for visiting Zion Canyon, by going through Zion National Park instead of around it on the interstate. Well like many short cuts turn out so this one did by being not so short. We knew we were in trouble as we approached the Park gates and there was a sign telling you that RVs need an escort to go through the canyon. Next we saw several RVs of varying size pulled over on the side of the road. So we did too. As it turned out it was a good thing we did. It turns out this was a caravan going through and their leader had done this before. He strongly suggested we disconnect the car and drive through separately. This was the best advice ever. The road twisted, turned, rose, descended, and passed through two tunnels with 13'1" clearance in the middle and 11' 1" on the sides. Our clearance is 12'6". Need I state the obvious?

Jack was in the navigator's seat directing Don down the middle of the tunnels, one of which was 1 mile long, and keeping him away from the side. I was following in the car, my knuckles turning white, just driving our little tow car.

The scenery was the most stupendous we had yet to see as we wound through the red canyon walls, and the sad thing is that there was no opportunity to stop and take a single picture. So we cannot even show our adventure through the tunnel.

We did manage to arrive safely at the visitor center on the other side of the park and immediately started exploring the Canyon before proceeding on to camp in Virgin. We first walked over to the campground where we played in the river for awhile cooling off. This is about the same spot where Bob, Don, and Mike blew a hole in their rubber raft floating up and down the rapids 23 years ago. It brought back some great memories. Jack persevered chasing a little fish until he actually caught. We are not sure what it was but we got a good picture of it before he released it back into its home.

We then took the park shuttle to the Emerald Pools trail head at the Zion Lodge. It was a moderate hike up the the wonderful viewpoints terminating at a small waterfall creating Emerald Pools.

Of course, we stopped at the Lodge before taking the shuttle back to our vehicles for an ice cream and discovered the most wonderful aroma of Pizza. We had to promise Jack pizza for lunch the next day to get him to leave.

We finally found our way to the Zion River RV Resort in Virgin. This place was the most luxurious camping we have ever done and for no more cash than the KOAs. The pool was so great that Jack went swimming each evening when we returned to camp, ate dinner, then went swimming again. One evening he took time out to attend the movie "Dr. Doolittle" the swam until the pool closed.

Weeping Rock



Entering the Narrows

 The next day was our big adventure. We prepared ourselves to hike the Narrows of the Virgin River. It was the most bittersweet day of all. We first took a short hike up to Weeping Rock. Then we had a short wait for the Shuttle to take us to the Temple of Sinawava where we found the trail head to the Narrows. Well we started up the trail when Jack remembered that he left his camera at the last bus stop. Well we hopped back on the bus to retrace our steps and of course it was gone by then. Well this little boy's heart was broken. That camera is one of his prize possessions, not to mention it contained all of the pictures he had taken up to now. We tried to reassure him that we would probably find it back at the visitor center on our way home, and that helped just a little. His mom told me once that she could tell how Jack was feeling by the way he walked. Well, I hope I never have to see that walk again. The dejection started to wear off as we started into the river, and he felt totally better when Grandpa forgot to take his own camera off his belt before entering the deepest part of the river where the water was over his waist. So with Jack's camera MIA and Grandpa's soaking wet we have very little to show of the narrows.

I am very proud of us. Don and Jack rocked across the rocks through the rapids like monkeys, I conquered my fears with the aid of my trusty walking sticks and although I lagged behind them I went the distance. At one point for a very short way the water was slightly over Jack's head and he just dove in a swan through it. We stopped when we reached a rapid that Jack felt was just too swift for him to forge.

So after we consumed the promised pizza which, incidentally was the best piece of pizza I have ever had outside of the Chicago metropolitan area, we descended to the Visitor Center where some kind soul had turned in Jack's camera. He had already decided it was kind of good thing he lost it so it didn't end up swimming in the Virgin River like his Grandpa's. Another bright ending is that Grandpa removed his battery and memory card immediately and was able to dry out the camera and it is still working, at least for now. Keep your fingers crossed that it doesn't rust before we finish our saga.

Travels With Jack

Well we left Yellowstone and landed in Arco, Idaho to visit Craters of the Moon National Monument and EBR 1 the first place to use nuclear power for peaceful purposes.

Jack was unimpressed with looking at fields of lava (cinder) formations until he discovered "lava tubes", better thought of as caves, which he could explore. Then he was all over the place. One cave which we all started out in I gave up on halfway through when I had to climb over a huge pile of rocks. It was the thought of coming back down them that put me off. So I waited topside for them for what was becoming a worrisome amount of time, when all of a sudden they emerged behind me from a big hole in the ground which I had cautioned Jack against falling into on the way to the cave entrance.

Down the road apiece was a nuclear power research center dating back to the early 50's where they began research on peaceful uses for nuclear energy. It is simply known as EBR 1. We took a self-guided tour, and even though It has been shut down for years it is still scary to see Jack at the controls. Look out for nuclear meltdown!!

Before returning to camp we had a delightful dinner at Pickle's Place, a local dive and home of the atomic burger.

 

After that we proceeded to Salt Lake City, Utah. The best thing there in Jack's mind was the swimming pool. He was a great sport though and even seemed to enjoy our bus tour of the city. I hope he soaked a little of the Mormon history in the region.

He thought the best part of the tour was lunch - it was cafeteria style like at his school. He also loved the fountains in Temple Square. Personally, I liked the gardens and we all enjoyed the free organ concert at the Mormon Tabernacle.

 It turned out to be a good day for touring the city as it was the first rainy day of our trip and a city kind of looks the same in the rain or shine.

There were a lot of other things we saw. The University of Utah is very interesting. The campus  is imbued with historic buildings dating back to a civil war era fort and from the 2002 winter Olympics.

There are several monuments to the early Mormon settlers, and the capitol building is the loveliest I have ever seen. It is modeled after the Washington Capitol, and I think it is actually lovelier. Luckily the weather cleared by the time we returned to camp so Jack could get in his daily swim.

Next was Bryce Canyon. There isn't much to say about Bryce. It is simply for exploring and admiring. God in all his glory put some effort into this one. We took a rather adventurous hike into the bottom of the canyon to get the true perspective of its grandeur. Then we drove the highway around the rim to the various viewpoints and took a few short walks to the best vantage points. For those of you who may never get this experience, why not just sit back and enjoy the visit with us.

The Big Trip

We've had quite a lot of adventures since we left Cody, Wyoming. The rodeo in Cody was a big hit with the kids. The cowboys were cute too. Even Elise got into the spirit. There was bronco riding, calf roping,  barrel racing, and the biggest attraction of all for some reason, the bull riding. What a tough way to make a living.

We arrived at Yellowstone National Park the next afternoon after a glorious ride through the Big Horn Mountains. Jack was mesmerized as he is old enough to sit in the pilot seat of the coach. He could not believe such sights existed. We let the girls come up front a few minutes to see the snow capped mountains emerge on the horizon and for the rest of the week Elise kept saying I see the snow mountains.

Yellowstone is one wonderful amazing sight after another. Any attempt to capture its essence with words and pictures is inadequate at best. Unless one is inside with a 360 degree vision in all directions, the total splendor is lost. A few years ago when we were planning a trip to Rocky Mountain National Park I began to think that with today's technology in photography and cinematography, we don't need to leave our arm chairs to appreciate the richness of our world. Then I was inside the park and saw what only the human eye can see for real.

We spent the first day exploring the thermohydro ?? Whatevers. Meaning geysers, mud pots, hot springs, and things like that. Jack told us when planning this trip that he wanted to go into a volcano. Well, he got his wish. I never knew that Yellowstone was in the world's largest volcano.

Of course, we started with Old Faithful. We were all amazed as it spurted into the air right on time. This is our third time to see it and it hasn't lost its wonder. We then took a hike around the geyser fields and saw a few more eruptions and admired the chromatic pools.

We spent the rest of the day exploring the "hot spots of the park". Elise finally said no more geysers; they are hot and stinky. We finished off the day driving through Firehole canyon where we stopped to admire the waterfall and ended up the day with a swim in one of the rivers. Yes, Phil, that's me in the water again with my clothes on.

The next day was long and spectacular. We hiked an unbelievable number of miles straight up and straight down exploring the upper and lower falls of Yellowstone dubbed the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone. This is what gives Yellowstone its name. In order to appreciate the power and magnificence of this river you have to get into it. These children were amazing in their stamina. Even 3 year old Elise toughed out much of the rigors of the hikes with a little help from Mom and Dad at times. Her mom has super human capacity for hiking with an extra 30 lbs. on her hip until she finally gives up and Elise is forced to accept a piggy back ride from her daddy. She did, however log a significant number of miles on foot. Ella amazed herself at her ability to hike. She doesn't particularly like to walk, but rather than miss out on anything she went along like a good sport and found herself actually enjoying it all.

Of course, we expected to see lots of buffalo in the park but the sight of one actually prancing down the middle of the road was a surprise to all.

We all had a great time trying to sight the wildlife and we were able to rack up quite a list: buffalo, elk, moose, coyote and even a big black bear.

Our last stop for the day was Mammoth Springs. The springs were only slightly disappointing, as they are dry at the moment so the bright red colors are not so vivid. I guess you have to get lucky because there is no rhyme or reason to the amount of water going over the springs at any one time.

We spent one day driving through the Grand Tetons National Park then on to Jackson Hole for lunch and a ride up the gondola in Teton village. The amazing thing about the Tetons is that they just seem to rise up out of flat ground without the gradual incline through foot hills and smaller mountains. Another rather rigorous hike took us around Jackson Lake to the cascades. The great thing about this hike is that at the end we took the option of a ferry boat ride back to our starting point.

The Gondola ride in Teton Village was great fun. It is so cool to experience these things through the eyes of the children. Elise reacted like it was her favorite roller coaster ride floating over rooftops and trees and sometimes offering the illusion of crashing into cliffs on your way to the top of the world. It was very windy and cold at the top of the world and a little breathtaking at the increased altitude.

These were very long and active days for all of us. Don and Amy took a couple of unbelievable bike rides on these steep mountain roads while we entertained the children.  The children were real troopers as long as we kept the peanut butter sandwiches flowing. Amy is contemplating making a Jiff commercial. They loved the camper and make themselves quite at home.